Custom ATLAS MP15DC Part 2

Work continued on the MP15DC.
I spraypainted all parts to match Unions Green/Yellow paint scheme.

And also faded the trucks and fuel-tank to a light grey, for better visual effects. The will get toned down later to a dark grey / black.

Followed by appling the custom decals ….

Next Step : Weathering .. stay tuned

Tiny parts alert – a possible mission

I was asked by a customer to make a headlight insert for an Atlas RS 1 shell he wanted to convert to a different railroad. He needed a insert with two independent lights side by side. Well needless to say I like to tinker around at nearly impossible stuff.
The diameter of the insert is 2 mm, with two 0.6 mm openings for the lights. 3D printed in grey resin. Additional I made the lightblocks, which fit snugg into the insert on one side and the hole in the shell on the other. They are also 3D printed in clear resin.


Currently on my workbench is a custom project. I will convert a stock ATLAS EMD MP15DC into an MP15 for Union Railroad (URR) #13. MY client had the special request to add the URR typical walkways and raised sand hatches to the model.

I drew a template for the walkways and had it photo etched from nicklesilver by a local specialist. I turned out very good. The sand hatches were 3D desingned and resin printed by myself.

Here is the curent working state, showing the stripped shell with attached walkways and hatches.


CSX 7348

New customer project finished.

N-Scale ATLAS EMD Dash 8-40CW, was a former Conrail unit. Now patched for CSXT #7348.

Repaint of the cab, and overal brief weathering. Custom-made number decals on cab side and numberboards to match the prototype.

Weathering is done with a first coat of light blue to get the fade effect. Followed by several layers of powdered pastels. Grills and lids are blacked with dilluted acrylic black. Oil spill streaks are highlighted with clear gloss on acrylic black.






#csx #thisisnscale #freakysmallstuff #conrail #csx-7348

Arnold SW1 URR #470

Today I have a little pictorial of making the URR #470

Base unit for this rather short job is an Arnold Hornby SW1 that came with Boston & Maine livery. Not much off the later final livery but I always strip the whole factory paint using 99% IPA and a ultrasonic bath.

I let the disassembled parts sit in the IPA until the paint peels of, followed by a gently rubbing with soft brush. In this case I noticed that the window inserts were glued to the cab walls. Prying them off is a bad idea as you will damage the small window frames. I let them in place and the IPA solved the glue.

Before the works begin : The factory livery on the SW1

SW1 with stripped off paint.

After striping I paint the base part in a straight white and gave the hood an cab a dark blue coat. I use standard water based flat acrylic paints thinned with 70% IPA to flow trough my airbrush.

The spots where I need to place decals I spray a glossy overcoat. This helps the decals to almost disappear on the model as you will have no airbubbles between the decal and the surface of the model.

After the decals dried I overspray the whole parts with a flat clearcoat, to secure the decals and to have an even and base were my weathering will adhere to.

Paint job done. I let the newly painted models or parts of it sit in an upside down placed fresh-box to prevent dust to settle on the fresh paint.

Decals are in place and the weathering has started.

First step in every weathering process is the blurring of the base color. I did this on the SW1 with a light blue – more sky or baby-blue wash of watered acrylic paint. Several layers applied one after one will sum up and help to control the blurring effect better than using just one single layer of wash.

Rust spots and bleeds are made of up to 7 layers of powdered pastels, each layer secured by overspraying with clearcoat.

Almost there. Assembly of hood and cab walkways and motor drive.

It helps to work after a prototype photo to not overkill a weathering job.

With all parts weathered I gave them a final flat clearcoat to get the surface touch-safe. After this its time to re-assemble the parts. Before inserting the windows I inspect and clean them if necessary.


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